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National Highway 1 is green and lush during the summer months, but when the winter chill sets in its beauty turns bleak and brittle. The late author James Wade describes this region best in his book West Meets East: "North of Seoul the Korean landscape is austerely beautiful in late winter. A light dusting of snow sets off the dark dots of rice stubble in frozen paddies and the lonely clumps of thatch-roofed farm houses. The steel-gray horizon, rimmed with jagged, ice-streaked mountains, recedes before the jeep as it rumbles past the rail terminal city of Munsanni and approcahes the Imjin River, with its symbolically narrow and precarious Freedom Bridge." Suddenly you realize that the bleak new chain of mountains looming up ahead is North Korean territory.


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