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Following on the heels of urban expansion, and in tune with a rapidly rising standard of living, many of the outer areas of Seoul have become shopping and entertainment centers that rival those found in the downtown area. With the notable exception of Itaewon, however, they do not attract a lot of foreigners. Part of the reason is that, even though any given point in Seoul seems to be only minutes from a subway station, it can still take an hour or more to travel across town. The subways are quick enough (allow about two minutes between each subway stop); it's just that you can seldom get your destination without one or two subway transfers, and a taxi ride. Still, there are some interesting places across the Han River that deserve a visit. The thing to do is to make a day of it, and check out several places of interest. And really, there is no better way to get to know modern Korea than by exploring the fringes of Seoul.

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